THE DETAIL GARAGE

The keys to a perfect detail are to use only the finest products, follow proven techniques and allow sufficient time to do the job right. Here is an outline of some of the techniques.

WASHING . . . remove the worst first

• The bottom of the car – work from the inside out: clean fender wells, wheels, tires, rocker panels, exhaust tips, etc.
• The engine – spray cleaner over the entire engine compartment, then let it soak. Agitate with brush before rinsing. When spraying water, cover electrical components or keep your motor running to listen for any change of engine speed. Pressure-wash at your own risk.
• The top of the car – start with a clean bucket and tools. Hose the car down and begin washing with a cotton or microfiber wash mitt. Flush each area after washing. Let your soapy water flow down but be sure to keep all surfaces moist.
• Dry from the top down – start drying immediately after washing while surface is still moist. Dry the sunny side first.
• Dry again – after getting most of the water off, come back a second time with a fresh dry towel to buff lightly, removing any remaining moisture from surface and along all seams.
• Dry all trim and jambs – use moist towels to clean all grooves around windows, roof, door jambs, fuel filler area, hood and trunk jambs, and finally . . . wheels, wheel wells, fender lips and engine.

FINISH THE BOTTOM . . . including fender wells, wheels, tires and engine

• Apply finish to fender wells, wheels, tires and engine now so any over spray doesn’t create a mess later. Fear of getting dirt or grit on the painted surfaces is greatly diminished by completing this process first.

SURFACE PREPARATION . . . begin by removing what washing alone will not remove

• Clay – use “clay” to clean every non-porous surface whether it’s a new car just off the showroom floor . . . or a beater! Every car has texture on the surface you can feel even after washing. Clay will remove any foreign matter such as fly specs, paint overspray or tree sap from paint, chrome and glass surfaces. Clay as many times as necessary to remove all surface texture. The surfaces should be “baby-bottom” smooth.
• Using an orbital – not everyone is comfortable with using a machine on the paint. Orbital polishers with a foam pad are the safest and easiest to use. Polishers generate more heat with less effort and can reduce the time required for an impressive result. Removing scuffs and some scratches may not be possible by hand. Washing the car again may be required to remove buffing compound before proceeding.
• Scratch removal and touch-up – There are products on the market, such as QUIX, that work very effectively to remove minor scratches. Dr. Color Chip is my preferred method for correcting paint chips and dings. Both are easy to use and come with complete instructions which, if followed, will result in great success.
• Pre-wax cleaning – a final cleaning of the paint is now a simple process to complete. It provides an opportunity to recheck all past trouble spots before the wax finish is applied. Using a pre-wax cleaner without silicone, petroleum distillates or polymers is an important final step before waxing.

WAX . . . how to protect your assets and reap the rewards of your hard work

• Carnauba is still the best wax ingredient if maximum shine is your goal. The more carnauba the better. Silicone is a known enemy of paint, petroleum distillates leave a white powder, and space age products value durability over clarity and shine.
• Waxing is the final, critical, least time consuming and most rewarding step. A good carnauba wax can enhance the shine you have created through the cleaning process while providing a layer of protection against all of those things you have just removed. You not only have the satisfaction of a job well done, you also have a car that stays clean longer, is easier to maintain and retains its’ value.